Rockin’ the Rockies

This is the narrative... see below for pictures, lots of pictures!

I am back in Iqaluit following a nine day Alberta Rockies adventure with Mark and company, and what a trip it was! A wedding, great friends, beautiful scenery, abundant wildlife, and a seemingly endless string of hot tubs across the Rockies…

Mark and I arrived late on Friday and were reunited at the airport :) It was sooooo good to see his familiar, friendly face. Cousin Andy picked us up at the airport and conveniently brought us a rental car (thanks Andy!). What a super guy! And it was great to see him and his beautiful bride! We haven’t seen Andy in over four years! And for those of you who don’t already know, he was the one who introduced us, so he has a special place in our affections. We dropped Andy and Amanda off at her sister’s (their apartment kind of blew up, but that’s another story) and headed to our hotel for the night.

Saturday was consumed by wedding activities! We got up early and met everyone downstairs for breakfast… it was so great to see everyone and to be surrounded by so many familiar faces! After a swim in the pool and a couple of trips down the big yellow curly waterslide (so much fun!) we got ourselves ready for the wedding and headed out. The ceremony was held outdoors at a bed and breakfast south of Calgary overlooking a beautiful vista with a deep river valley and open fields and forest. I was surprised by the abundance of fall colors present across the landscape. It is quite clearly fall in the Rockies. It made for spectacular scenery… only one problem. It was VERY cold and very few were adequately dressed for it, including the bride and groom! But it didn’t take any of the magic away from the moment. I love weddings! Once everyone warmed up in their cars we headed to the reception, and what can be said about the reception? Like all weddings, it was a rockin’ good time. There were many drinks consumed, high-spirited dancing, and awesome hand rubs ;) AND the bride and groom drove us all back to the hotel in their stretch SUV limo! Thanks Curtis and Pam, and congratulations!

On Sunday a group of us took off for the mountains… our destination: Canmore. Our good friend Jeffery Gillis found a three-bedroom condo with a rooftop hot tub and fireplace (once again Jeff, bravo). It was awesome! We stayed there for two nights eating AAA Alberta beefsteaks, playing silly drinking games and watching the snow come down. Yes, that’s right, there was snow… about 5 to 10 cm of it! It was my hope to get a little taste of real summer before heading back up north for the winter, but it was colder in Calgary than in Iqaluit! At least for the first few days… it warmed up a little toward the end of the trip. We headed out at around midnight to play in the snow… it made me feel very confused about the time of year!

On Monday we ventured out to the town of Banff in Banff National Park. It was quite overcast with a thick layer of fogs hanging over the mountains. Unfortunately it didn’t make for great scenery shots, but it began to clear as the afternoon progressed. We went for a hike along the Bow River downriver of the Bow Falls and the Fairmont Banff Springs (which is an incredible sight!). It was a nice hike, but the highlight came at the end of the hike when Sarah spotted a massive bull elk down hill from us resting along the river’s edge. I couldn’t get over the size of him! He was resting and every so often he would bugle, and eventually another male began answering his call from across the river valley. It was very exciting, and a little eerie in a way… it is a unique sound. We followed up our hike with a delightful soak in the Upper Banff hot springs… ahhhh relaxation!

The following morning we awoke to more grey skies, but undaunted and with high spirits we optimistically headed to Lake Louise. We took the scenic route and stopped for a hike to see some waterfalls. Once we arrived in Lake Louise we headed straight for Moraine Lake and were rewarded for our optimism by clearing skies and a magnificent view of this brilliant turquoise coloured lake surrounded by ten snow capped peaks. From Moraine Lake we reluctantly parted company with our faithful companions and headed up to Lake Louise for a glimpse of the lake beneath the setting sun beyond the surrounding mountains. It is no wonder why these two magnificent sites attract so many visitors year after year.

That night we stayed at a little place called the Deer Lodge just minutes from Lake Louise. What can I say about Deer Lodge?? Well, it has some old school charm. The majority of the Lodge, including the plumbing, I’m sure hasn’t been updated since it was built in the early 1900s. Thankfully the rooms have been updated and were very clean, though tiny! Just enough room for the bed. The staff was friendly, albeit slightly wrinkled and unkempt, and the rooftop hot tub with a full moon overhead illuminating the surrounding snow capped mountains was truly surreal. We were very tuckered after two nights staying up late with friends and a long day of sightseeing and were looking forward to a restful night’s sleep. We swiftly drifted into a deep slumber only to be awoken at 2:30 am by someone coming into our room! We drowsily woke to the sound of a key in the door and managed a confused, yet stern “hello?” before any lights were flicked on. Our intruder mumbled an apology and quickly closed the door, leaving us feeling violated and confused. Mark called down to the front desk and was informed that a staff member had given a guest (who arrives at a hotel at 2:30 am?) the key to our room thinking it was empty. From that point in the night on neither of us slept very fitly, waking up with a start with every creak and groan of the building’s old bones. THEN at 6 am, when we were finally falling into a deeper sleep, the fire alarm went off! It was going for a minute or two as we struggled to wake ourselves and fumbled with our clothes, before it turned off just as abruptly as it started. I had to laugh when the front desk clerk answered the phone just as coolly and calmly as if nothing was amiss, and when I asked if we should evacuate he answered with a smile in his voice “no ma’am, everything is perfect”. I have to be honest, everything was far from perfect, but it makes for a good story! Needless to say I would not recommend the Deer Lodge hotel in Lake Louise!

We woke up to yet another grey day and were pleased that we had taken the time to see Lake Louise the previous evening. After gladly checking out of the Deer Lodge (they gave us a free breakfast buffet for our troubles) we hit the road, bound for Jasper. Within 10 minutes of Lake Louise we began to catch startling glimpses of the surrounding mountains through small breaks in the clouds, like windows through the clouds on distant shrouded scenery. Five minutes later that the sun finally burned through the grey and gloom, scattering the clouds and draping the landscape in warm rays of sunlight. What a welcome sight indeed! Suddenly we found ourselves surrounded by a vast landscape of distant snow capped mountains and forest covered river valleys. We found ourselves beneath clear blue skies for the rest of the day!

The drive from Lake Louise to Jasper is spectacular! We were one car among an endless stream of vehicles with a similar agenda… stop at every available pull-over for pictures of brilliant mountain scenes, glossy green lakes, alpine glaciers draped over sunlit mountains, each vehicle watching closely whenever another vehicle pulled over on the side of the road in case they spotted wildlife. They are in the process of installing these absolutely massive animal crossings over the highway. They are essentially great wide overpasses that will be covered in trees and vegetation for everything from mule deer to cougars to bears to use. Such a great idea, and apparently they already have trailcam and track evidence that they work. And did we ever spot wildlife! A great bull moose, three moose feeing at another site, a moose feeding in a calm, quiet lake, numerous mule deer and big horn sheep, a full herd of elk along the side of the road in the dark, and le piece de resistance…. a grizzly bear right on the side of a deserted gravel road! Mark was very hopeful that we would see a bear and on our very last day in the mountains we went for a scenic wildlife drive for the sole purpose of spotting a bear. No sooner had I reassured Mark that I was confident we would find our bear given my very good bear karma following my polar bear sighting, did we round a bend and there she was (I think she was a she). She even stood up on her hind legs at one point to get a good look at us.

Our night in Jasper was relaxing and comfortable, a dramatic improvement over the previous nights attempt at sleep. Yet another hot tub soothed our weary bones following another long day of sightseeing and hiking. We stayed in Canmore our last night in the mountains in an amazing condo with a King sized bed that felt like a cloud, two fireplaces and a huge claw foot tub… we didn’t want to leave! But alas dreams can’t last forever. We headed to Calgary where we met up with cousin Andy and his wife Amanda, went and saw there new house (still in the early stages of development), then headed downtown for a tour of the city. I didn’t realize Calgary was so flat! We went to the top of the tower and the city goes on and on until it reaches the foot of the Rockies to the west. The visit with Andy and Amanda was great!

And just as all good things come to an end, Mark and I parted ways at the airport the next morning. Surprisingly it wasn’t tearful… optimistic about the next visit, which may be as soon as six weeks from now! It was strange to return to Iqaluit on my own again, but one cozy night in my bed and a good day at work and I’m right back into the swing of things…

Weddin' Pictures

Rockin' the Pictures in the Rockies!

Winds of changes...

To everything (turn, turn, turn) there is a season (turn, turn, turn)...

Less than two weeks ago, while dad was here visiting, we experienced the nicest weather of the whole summer. From the time he landed though until he left a week later fall settled in over the land. The first of the vegetation began to turn to red and gold, which, for some reason was surprising to me. When I think of fall colours I, of course, think of trees. I wasn’t expecting to see the same kind of changes with the leafy bits of vegetation that cling to the rocks out on the open tundra, but they’re brilliant. By the end of dad’s trip the colours were in full swing.

It seems though that the warm weather must have boarded the same plane when dad left last Tuesday. Just over a week since he left and the colours are already become dull and fading into brown. And it is starting to get cold! Fall seems to have come and passed in a matter of weeks, instead of months and believe it or not the first snowflakes fell several days ago and the first morning frost clung to the cold pavement on my walk to work. Even the winds have changed... no more summer breezes, these are late fall, early winter gusts that seem to come out of nowhere and catch you off guard, stealing your hat or blowing dust from the sidewalks in your face.

Winter is expected to arrive any moment. If it doesn’t snow before my trip to Calgary this Friday, I can expect to return to snow on the ground when I return a week later.
One positive result of shorter days and cooler weather however has been an increase in the appearance of the northern lights. There was an absolutely spectacular display the other night. My roommate, who has been here for two and a half years, said it was some of the best northern lights she has seen yet. There were three broad ribbons of brilliant green weaving across the sky with waves of dancing streaks shimmering along their lengths. It gave me shivers. I wish I could share some pictures with you, but it wouldn’t do it justice, it is a scene that you just have to experience in person and that I have no doubt I will carry in my memories for a long time to come.

Word has it that I now have a growing base of fans in Yarmouth County and sunny California! One of my devoted fans down in Carleton has been passing my blog along :) Glad to hear that people are enjoying it, I certainly enjoying putting it together!

Jimmy of the North!

I’m back! I’ve had a few distractions the past couple of weeks, but it doesn’t mean I don’t love you!

The biggest of those distractions was a Jimmy! I had an absolutely fantastic visit with my dad last week. He arrived last Tuesday on a beautiful afternoon and the weather stayed with us the whole time he was here! It was easily the best week of the whole summer.

I took the afternoon off and we went for a hike around town. To be perfectly honest, a hike around the main part of town, the downtown area if you will (and in the case of Iqaluit it is very much down from the rest of town... I’m telling you, it is a big ass hill), only takes about ten minutes! We stopped at North Mart and dad was actually quite impressed with the availability of food (and maybe questioning why he drug a big cooler up with him full of tasty goodies for me... it was worth it, if only for the goat cheese! No decent goat cheese in town). I think that first hike back up the hill was hard on the old guy, but he took it like a champ! Back at the house that night we enjoyed a delectable (and downright gourmet if I do say so myself) dinner of baked arctic char and the first of the Indiana Jones series (my roommate has them all! we managed to make it through the whole series before dad left at the end of the week).

I had to work the next day, but dad trucked around town and met me for lunch. I had encouraged him to go and see the museum, art gallery and legislature (all within two minutes of each other) but he was so concerned about the impending arrival of hurricane Earl bearing down on Yarmouth Harbour and the marina that he manages, that I think he spent much of the day on the phone! Thankfully (as most of you know) Earl’s bite turned out to be much less than his bark.

That night (much to my delight) the northern lights shone for the first time since I arrived. There have been hints before, but we stepped out on the back patio and there they were, draped across the sky above the row of houses up from us. They are mostly green, though later in the season I can expect to see other colours, and there isn’t too much movement this time of year. Just the hint of a shimmer, like someone took one end of a drape and snapped it so that a wave travels the length of it. Beautiful. I couldn’t get any pictures unfortunately... you need to have a better camera than I have to capture the northern lights with any sense of reality, but these are some of my co-workers best shots.

I took the day off on Thursday and dad and I hiked around and visited some of the local sites, but the real highlight of dad’s trip, and the highlight of my entire summer, came on Friday! My boss Jim‘s son runs the only boat chartering business in town, Inukshuk Tours. Jim tries to get the staff out on the boat every summer and when I told him that my dad was coming and enjoys being out on the water, he arranged it so that the two coincided! What a great boss :). So we were up with the sun and travelled down to one of the breakwaters (unfortunately for the people of Iqaluit, there are no real wharves in town), donned bright red survival suits and boarded the boat. This monster is packing over 700 horsepower in twin V8 motors and can she ever fly! The day was beautiful and the water was calm as anything... the conditions couldn’t have been better. We cruised among the islands stretching across Frobisher Bay and in and out of a number of the smaller bays and inlets. There were several waterfalls, beautiful calm bays reflecting the surrounding scenery almost perfectly. It was amazing.

When Jim told us about the trip and asked us where we wanted to go he suggested the fiords on the western side of Frobisher Bay, saying there was a one in a million chance that we would see a bear. Well, when I heard Jimmy junior say that there was a female bear with her two cubs up on one of the ridges above us, I thought to myself that I had better run and buy a lottery ticket when we got back to town. I couldn’t see them at first and I was quite upset because I was afraid I was going to miss them all together, but there they were… mother and two cubs making there way across the mountain side. They were quite a distance off, but with binoculars you could make them out well enough. Here is a picture I took of them through my binoculars, lol. You can at least tell what they are... sort of :)

Well, after that experience you just couldn’t get the silly grin off my face. Most people living in Iqaluit that have been here for three, four or more years have never seen a bear, and Taq, who was on the trip and grew up in Nunavut, even living out on the land every summer when she was young, had never seen cubs before this weekend. It was quite the experience. The rest of the trip we saw seals and got up close and personal with a couple of ice bergs. It was a truly unforgettable day! And were we ever bushed at the end of it! We both slept well that night.

On Saturday dad came out to the shelter to help me out with the dogs, and then in the evening we went for a sunset hike out the Road to Nowhere to join a bonfire party, a popular summer activity in Iqaluit. It was quite the little adventure we went on, tripping across the tundra after dark! By the time we arrived at the fire the festivities were well underway. It was a nice gathering with good food and wine, which we savoured out of water bottles and paper cups. There were furry friends we well, including an absolutely massive, Newfoundland drool machine named Tank (yes, I am referring to a dog, in case there was any confusion) and a little white poodle named Moe. We didn’t stay for too long before we decided to head back out from the safety of the fire. On the hike back to town the Northern Lights continued their brilliant dance over head. The stars were fantastic as well, I don’t think I have seen them much clearer and brilliant than up here on a clear night, except for maybe remote New Zealand (remember that Mark?).

There’s a trend that you may or may not have picked up on yet… are you getting the sense that we did a lot of hiking? Well if you are, you are quite right! We ate indulgently (dad had the opportunity to try local arctic char, turbot, caribou and musk ox, and even went home with a cooler full of char for smoking... save some for my next visit home!), but made up for it on long hikes under sunny skies. I was very impressed, dad kept up quite well. He only accused me of elder abuse on a couple of occasions. It is a small town, so in theory you can walk anywhere and everywhere. I don’t have a car (yet), and though taxis are cheap, I am cheaper and so walking has become my standard method of getting around. We went down the hill, and then back up it, and then down again and, though we may have taken a slightly different route… back up it again and again. It’s good for the old ticker! That’s my theory.

On Sunday I volunteered at the local softball tournament in the beer garden selling drinks and food in support of the Humane Society. Dad also supported the Humane Society by downing several cold beers and donating excellent tips to the cause. There is a real sense of volunteerism in this town, so much need for it. Everyone has their favourite cause or two that they donate their time and efforts to.

The rest of the trip dad and I spent hiking some more, and just enjoying each other’s company. It was a real treat to have a familiar face around, if only for a few days. When you move somewhere as distant and remote as Iqaluit it is quite easy to feel like you are in another world, but dad’s presence brought my two worlds a little closer together, and I was so thankful for it. On Tuesday at lunch I walked dad down to the airport and saw him off. He had a little dog in tow that he was transporting to its owner back in Nova Scotia, just another example of his big heart and generous spirit. I was sorry to see him go…